There’s nothing quite like stepping out of the house at 6AM, only to sink ankle-deep in mud before you even reach the parlour.

You know the spot — same one every year.
You’ve topped it with gravel. Poured a bit of concrete.
Hell, you’ve even thought about French drains (before putting it off for lambing season).

But no matter what, winter rolls in… and your yard turns into a swamp.

🚨 What Most Farmers Get Wrong About Flooding

Let’s get something straight:

Yard flooding isn’t a fluke.
It’s a design problem.

And 9 times out of 10, it’s one of these culprits:

• No proper fall – the ground isn’t sloped right, so water just sits there, rotting everything beneath it
  
• Old compacted ground – rainwater can’t soak in, so it runs straight to your lowest point (usually near your buildings… great)
  
• Missing sub-surface drainage – there’s no where for excess water to go, so it just pools
  
• Improper concrete work – surfaces without drainage channels or fall just become expensive swimming pools
  
  

You don’t need another layer of hardcore.
You need to fix the system beneath it.

🧱 What It’s Doing to Your Yard Right Now

If you think “it’s just water,” think again.

Here’s what standing water is doing every time you ignore it:

• Washing out sub-base under concrete slabs
  
• Cracking your foundations slowly but surely with frost expansion
  
• Pooling under slurry tanks or near walls, causing damp, rot and corrosion
  
• Creating daily waste — from cleaning up to losing time rerouting stock or machinery
  
  

And the longer you leave it, the worse it gets.
Because what starts as a puddle becomes a pothole.
And then that pothole becomes a full excavation project.

💡 Here’s How We Actually Solve It

We don’t just “lay some stone” and hope for the best.
We build it properly — to survive Welsh weather and Welsh work rates.

Step 1: Assess the Yard’s Flow

We look at how water actually moves (or doesn’t).
Sometimes the fix is simple — like adding 1% fall in the right direction.
Sometimes we need to reprofile whole areas. But we start with smart eyes, not heavy machines.

Step 2: Dig, Drain, and Rebuild

If your ground's saturated, we go deep:

• Geotextile membrane
  
• Clean stone sub-base
  
• Perforated pipe runs
  
• Re-compaction layer-by-layer
  We build it like we’re going to work it ourselves. Because we would.
  
  

Step 3: Surface it for the Job

We use:

• Concrete with correct expansion joints
  
• Binding grit for high-traffic areas
  
• Fall channels to direct runoff
  
• Culvert tie-ins where needed
  It’s built to work. And to last.
  
  

🧪 How Do You Know if You Need This?

Walk your yard. After rain. After snowmelt.
Here’s your basic test:

• Are your feet getting wet where they shouldn’t?
  
• Is water sitting for more than an hour in certain areas?
  
• Do you have to squeegee concrete or scrape mud off gates?
  
• Are your stock routes getting damaged by puddles or soft spots?
  
  

That’s your sign.

👷 Want Help? Here’s What We Offer:

✔️ Free on-site assessment – we walk the site, no clipboard rubbish
✔️ Simple drainage planning – we show you what’s causing the problem
✔️ No BS quote – if it’s fixable with a digger and some slope, we’ll say so. If not, we build it right.

You’ll get a yard that drains fast.
Dries faster.
And doesn’t leave you cursing the clouds every winter.

🔧 Final Thought

Water’s not just rain. It’s the silent thing that wrecks your concrete, rots your buildings, and steals your time.

The sooner you fix it, the less it costs.
The longer you wait, the deeper we have to dig.

📍 Book your free yard check today. Let’s fix it before winter wins again.

📆 www.pw-construction.co.uk/contact
📥 Download Free Yard Flooding Checklist